Italy’s noble grape, Nebbiolo, is exceptionally expressive in Piedmont, where it yields some of the country’s most illustrious wines. However, many astute wine lovers suggest that an equally compelling expression of Nebbiolo can be found in the Sassella subregion of Valtellina, in the northern hills of Italy. The high-altitude alpine climate and unique microclimate of Sassella create ideal conditions for Nebbiolo. The combination of cool temperatures, significant diurnal temperature variations, and well-drained rocky soils results in wines that are not only balanced but also elegant and complex. This environment allows Nebbiolo to develop vibrant acidity and concentrated aromas, offering a distinct and refined alternative to its Piedmontese counterparts.
One of the most remarkable producers in Sassella is Terrazzi Alti, a tiny one-hectare estate that epitomizes this take on Nebbiolo. Carved out of the mountainside over the centuries, and shaped by the construction of small terraces supported by stone walls, Terrazzi Alti’s vineyards are perched on steep slopes overlooking the Adda River 600 meters below.
At the helm of Terrazzi Alti’s winemaking is Siro Buzzetti. The vineyards of Terrazzi Alti are planted on shallow glacial-drift soil composed of 70% sand and 30% silt. With a southern exposition that maximizes sunlight, the estate boasts 3,500 vines per hectare, averaging 50 years in age.
At Terrazzi Alti, organic viticulture is practiced manually with a traditional pre-industrial approach. The estate avoids the use of synthetic chemicals and fertilizers, instead relying on natural composts, cover cropping, periodic mowing, and hoeing. Manual weeding, plowing, de-budding, and leaf-pulling are also integral to their meticulous vineyard management, ensuring the health and vitality of the vines.
With a manual harvest. grapes are meticulously sorted in the vineyard, then collected in two or more passes in small 18 kg baskets. The grapes are destemmed and gently crushed before undergoing a three-week maceration on their skins in stainless steel tanks. Following this, they are fermented over ambient yeasts for about eight days, during which frequent pump-overs are performed. After fermentation, there is an additional post-fermentation maceration period of eight days. The wine then remains in stainless steel tanks for malolactic fermentation, after which it is racked into untoasted French casks and Tyrolean tonneaux to age for 12-18 months. The wines are bottled in September of the second year following the harvest, without any fining, filtration, chaptalization, or acidification. Only about 5,000 bottles per year are produced.
