Pupillin, Jura, France
Cellier Saint Benoît is the most exciting domaine to emerge from the Jura in years. It is located in Pupillin, a small village outside Arbois that proudly styles itself the World Capital of Ploussard. The claim is justified. Pupillin’s unusual geology — a high proportion of older Triassic marls exposed by ancient faults — makes it the pre-eminent terroir for this ancient, indigenous red grape. Benjamin Benoît has seized that advantage. He bottles five of his Ploussard lieux-dits separately, a practice unheard of in the appellation before him. In so doing he has become the variety’s foremost champion.
Benjamin took over the family domaine in 2019 at the age of 23, following the unexpected death of his father Denis. He had been training in Burgundy under Amélie Berthaut, Nicolas Faure, and Charles Lachaux — arguably the three most influential young winemakers in the Côte de Nuits. He returned to Pupillin and immediately went to work. He introduced Guyot Poussard pruning, shifted to natural grasses between the rows, reduced ploughing to a minimum, and revamped every aspect of vinification. His first vintage, 2019, was brilliant. In 2021, Le Guide Hachette des Vins named him Jura Winemaker of the Year. Every bottle produced is numbered individually.
The domaine now farms 6.25 hectares across five traditional Jura varieties: Chardonnay, Savagnin, Pinot Noir, Ploussard, and Trousseau. The range spans fifteen cuvées, each expressing a distinct parcel and soil type. Production quantities are tiny. This is artisanal winemaking at its most uncompromising.
