Nestled between Burgundy to the west and Switzerland to the east, Jura is a small but historically significant wine region that has recently emerged as a key player in the wine world. This heightened interest is driven by the region’s distinctive wine styles, such as the oxidative Vin Jaune and the vibrant, mineral-driven whites made from Savagnin and Chardonnay. Additionally, the resurgence of indigenous red varieties like Trousseau and Poulsard has showcased Jura’s unique terroir and winemaking traditions. The commitment to organic and biodynamic farming practices among many Jura producers further enhances the authenticity and appeal of these wines.
Jura has a rich tradition of winemaking, exemplified by Domaine Jean Bourdy, which dates back to 1475. More recently, the region has become home to some of France’s most innovative and influential winemakers, such as Stéphane Tissot, Jean-François Ganevat, Pierre Overnoy, and Jacques Puffeney.
As a new generation begins to emerge, one name consistently heralded is Marin Fumey, who, not coincidentally, is a cousin of Stéphane Tissot. Marin works out of his family domaine, Fumey-Chatelain, which was founded by his parents, Adeline Fumey and Raphaël Chatelain, in 1986. Located in the heart of the Jura wine region, Domaine Fumey-Chatelain comprises 17 hectares of various parcels within the village of Montigny-lès-Arsures and neighboring villages.
The soils of Jura are highly varied, contributing to the unique expression of each vineyard site. In Montigny-lès-Arsures, the vineyards are predominantly planted on marl, a clay-limestone soil that is ideal for the region’s grape varieties. The presence of limestone helps to retain moisture while providing excellent drainage, crucial for vine health. Additionally, the clay content in marl soils contributes to the richness and structure of the wines.
Montigny-lès-Arsures, often referred to as the “Capital of Trousseau,” is particularly renowned for this red grape variety. Trousseau thrives in the marl-limestone soils and benefits from the favorable climate, producing wines with characteristic depth and complexity. The village’s vineyards are also home to other notable Jura varieties such as Savagnin, Chardonnay, Poulsard, and Pinot Noir.
Fumey-Chatelain practices organic viticulture, emphasizing minimal intervention and respect for the environment. Cover crops are planted between the rows to enhance soil health and biodiversity. Hand-harvesting ensures the careful selection of grapes, maintaining their integrity and quality. Marin’s approach to viticulture is meticulous, with a keen focus on understanding the unique characteristics of each vineyard plot and adapting practices to suit their specific needs.
Marin Fumey’s winemaking philosophy combines tradition with a modern touch. In the cellar, natural fermentation using indigenous yeasts is favored to reflect the true expression of the terroir. For white wines, such as the region’s iconic Savagnin and Chardonnay, fermentation occurs in old oak barrels to allow subtle oxygenation without imparting dominant oak flavors. These wines undergo extended aging on lees to enhance texture and complexity.
Red wines, including the notable Trousseau and Poulsard, undergo traditional fermentation in open-top vats with gentle extraction techniques like punch-downs and pump-overs. Maceration periods are carefully monitored to balance tannin extraction and fruit expression. After fermentation, the wines are aged in a combination of old oak barrels and stainless steel tanks to preserve freshness while developing depth and structure.
Marin also produces Vin Jaune, Jura’s legendary oxidative wine, made exclusively from Savagnin. This wine undergoes an extended aging process under a veil of yeast, similar to Sherry’s flor, for a minimum of six years and three months. The result is a wine with remarkable complexity, showcasing nutty, savory, and citrus notes, embodying the essence of Jura’s winemaking.
