Count Curnonsky (1872-1956), the “Prince of Gastronomes,” was the Twenieth Century’s most influential writer and critic of French food. With a lifelong appreciation for the pleasures of the table, he was especially passionate about the wines of Brezé: “the greatest white wines of the Loire, and indeed, the greatest white wines of the world.”
Just as Saumur is the crowning terroir in the Loire Valley’s Chenin country, just so is Brezê the jewell in the crown. The superiority of Brézé’s Chenins are generally attributed to its unique soil composition and microclimate. The vineyards are largely planted on tuffeau limestone, a porous, chalky rock that provides excellent drainage and retains sufficient moisture to nourish the vines during dry periods. This soil is rich in minerals, which contribute to the complexity and depth of the wines, and give rise to their characteristic flinty character. Brézé benefits from a favorable microclimate that is influenced by its elevation and proximity to the Loire River. The slightly cooler temperatures at higher altitudes help to maintain acidity in the grapes, which is crucial for producing balanced and age-worthy wines.
Domaine Guiberteau, located in the heart of the Saumur region, has a rich history that dates back to the early 20th century. The vineyards, initially planted by Roland Guiberteau’s grandfather, were originally used for producing bulk wine. Roland took the reins in the late 1990’s, after working alongside his mentor Nady Foucault of Clos Rougeard.
Domaine Guiberteau’s vineyards span over 14 hectares in Brézé and Montreuil-Bellay, including 17 separate parcels, each with its own distinct soil composition. The soils predominantly consist of tuffeau limestone, but also feature sandy and clay-limestone soils.
Roland Guiberteau employs meticulous organic farming practices across his vineyards, and has been officially certified since 2007. Pruning is done by hand to ensure precise control over the vine growth and yield. Plowing is carried out to maintain soil health and encourage deep root growth, which is vital for accessing the unique minerals of the terroir. Cover crops are strategically planted between the vine rows to enhance soil fertility, control erosion, and promote biodiversity.
The winemaking philosophy is centered on minimal intervention, allowing the true expression of the terroir to shine through. Whole cluster fermentation is often employed to enhance structure and complexity. Fermentation takes place in a combination of stainless steel tanks and large oak foudres, ensuring precise temperature control and gentle extraction of flavors.
Pressing is done carefully to avoid excessive tannin extraction, followed by aging in a mix of stainless steel, concrete vats, and oak barrels, depending on the desired style and complexity of the wine. The use of new oak is minimal, as Roland prefers to let the natural characteristics of the fruit and terroir take center stage. To preserve the wine’s integrity and purity, bottling is carried out without fining and , only if needed, minimal filtration.
Chai de la Dive is a new initiative from Romain Guiberteau, created as a way to explore the broader landscape of Saumur beyond his domaine holdings. Working with organically farmed grapes—from young estate vines and select growers—Guiberteau produces a white, red, and rosé under the “Les Moulins” label. The wines are made with the same care and restraint that define his main estate: native fermentations, no new oak, and a short aging period in stainless steel or concrete. Vineyard sites span several villages, including Berrie, Épieds, Montreuil-Bellay, and Puy-Notre-Dame, each contributing subtle distinctions in soil and exposure. Chai de la Dive offers a more informal expression of Guiberteau’s sensibility—open, precise, and quietly confident. It allows him to work more flexibly while maintaining the clarity and character that have made his wines among the most sought-after in the Loire.
Guiberteau’s dedication to quality and his profound respect for the terroir have established Domaine Guiberteau as a leading producer in the Saumur region. His Chenin Blanc and Cabernet Franc wines are celebrated for their elegance, minerality, and depth.
