Perhaps no single man better embodied all that is soulful and ethereal about the wines of Burgundy than Michel lafarge. Before his passing in 2020 Michel remained fully engaged in the viticulture and winemaking at the Domaine, works seamlessly alongside his son and daughter-in-law, Frederic and Chantal, and his grandaughter, Clothilde.
Built over cellars in Volnay first dug by the Dukes of Burgundy, Domaine Lafarge was established by Michel’s great-great-grandparents early in the 19th century. Michel rejected the mid-twentieth century embrace of chemical farming, and the vineyards have never varied from traditional, organic methods. Domaine Lafarge is certified organic (Ecocert) and biodynamic (Demeter).
The estate’s vineyards span approximately 12 hectares, predominantly situated in Volnay but also extending into the neighboring appellations of Pommard and Beaune. The viticultural philosophy is grounded in a deep respect for the land and a belief in the natural balance of the ecosystem. The vineyards are cultivated without the use of synthetic chemicals, relying instead on natural preparations to enhance soil vitality and vine health. Compost, herbal teas, and biodynamic preparations are used to strengthen the vines’ resistance to diseases and pests, fostering a resilient and vibrant vineyard ecosystem. Many of the vineyards are ploughed by horse, and chickens roam freely in the vineyards, serving at once to control pestd and to provide a natural source of nitrogen.
The Lafarges focus on low yields through careful pruning, cluster thinning, and the selection of old vines. They also practice rigorous canopy management to ensure optimal sunlight exposure and air circulation, crucial factors in the ripening process and the prevention of fungal diseases.
Harvesting at Domaine Michel Lafarge is done entirely by hand, allowing for the careful selection of only the ripest and healthiest grapes. This meticulous approach extends to the sorting table, where the grapes undergo a final selection to ensure that only the highest quality fruit makes it into the fermenters.
In the cellar, the Lafarges adhere to traditional winemaking techniques. The grapes are 100% destemmed and fermentation occurs naturally over ambient yeasts in open wooden vats. Elevage is conducted in French oak barrels, with a restrained use of new oak (25% at most) to avoid overwhelming the delicate nuances of the wines. The wines typically spend 12 to 18 months in barrel, with regular racking to clarify and stabilize them. Bottling is carried out with minimal intervention, often without fining or filtration, to preserve the integrity and purity of the wines.
Although their wines have long achieved cult status and routinely sell at auction for dizzying prices, the Lafarge family remains true to their traditions, connected to their soil, and committed to the pure expression of their vineyards.
