A few years ago, the esteemed wine critic Allen Meadows posited that Ben Leroux might inherit the mantle of Henri Jayer as the symbolic figure of Burgundy winemaking. Meadows described Leroux as “extremely thoughtful… positively brilliant… one of, if not the, most gifted young winemakers in all of Burgundy.” This high praise sets the stage for a winemaker whose influence and philosophy extend far beyond the vineyards of Burgundy.
Benjamin Leroux was the manager (régisseur) of the prestigious Domaine des Epeneaux (Comte Armand) for 15 years until he started to build his own domaine in 2007. For the first couple of years, he shared his historic cellar, built in 1848, with other winemakers until 2016 when the domaine grew big enough to no longer need roommates. Benjamin has emerged as a master craftsman, producing exceptional wines not only from his own vineyards—recently acquired—but also from carefully chosen growers who share his dedication to top-quality fruit. Leroux exerts substantial influence over these growers, advocating for organic and biodynamic practices to ensure the integrity and quality of the vineyard yield. His commitment to quality is evident, prioritizing the health of the vines and the excellence of the fruit over the allure of prestigious appellations, though his portfolio includes many such esteemed names.
While Leroux has a profound grasp of the technical aspects of winemaking, he is equally guided by a philosophical approach to his craft. He embraces the rhythms and holistic practices of biodynamic farming, appreciating its benefits to both the environment and the wine’s quality. However, Leroux is not a rigid adherent; he modifies his practices when they conflict with his own philosophy of harmony with nature. Notably, he avoids the use of copper, a common element in both organic and biodynamic viticulture, due to its environmental impact.
Benjamin Leroux produces wines throughout the Côte d’Or, cultivating 8 hectares (19.77 ac) and buying grapes from about 20 hectares (49.42 ac). His estate includes some of Burgundy’s most famous terroirs such as Batard-Montrachet Grand Cru or Corton Charlemagne Grand Cru.
Importantly, Leroux’s ambition is not driven by accolades or critics’ scores. His ultimate goal is to create wines that enhance the communal experience—wines that, when opened among friends, foster a sense of joy and camaraderie.
He achieves this by pressing his white wines as whole clusters and the fermentation taking place with ambient yeast in tanks, barrels or foudres. The wine is then aged for 12 to 22 months and is fined and filtered only when necessary. Since 2019, the wines are bottled with Diam corks. SO2 is added during aging, with a total of 50 to 70 ppm of SO2 at bottling.
The reds are made from 0 to 80% whole clusters, depending on the vintage and the cuvée. Fermentation takes place with ambient yeast, followed by pump-overs at the beginning and punch-downs towards the end of fermentation. After fermentation, the wine is aged in foudres or barrels containing no more than 30% new oak. The wine is then racked after 7 to 11 months before being blended in tanks for bottling. Fining and filtration are rarely used. Natural corks are used and SO2 is added during the aging process, with a total of 40 to 50 ppm of SO2 at bottling.
This aspiration reflects a winemaker who values the social and celebratory aspects of wine just as much as its quality and sustainability.
Ben Leroux’s journey and philosophy position him as a potential icon in Burgundy, much like Henri Jayer before him. Yet, his focus remains steadfastly on the craft—on wines that bring people together, creating memorable moments over a shared bottle.
